Caftan manufacturing

Caftan : Nine Centuries of Moroccan Elegance
Moroccan caftan by Bouchra Filali Lahlou
Moroccan caftan by Bouchra Filali Lahlou

Being a sign of elegance and beauty for many centuries, the Moroccan caftan results from big knowledge and savoir-faire.

Today, in our blog, we will discover the history, techniques, and different styles of Moroccan caftan with you.

Origins of Caftan

Moroccan Caftan
Moroccan Caftan

The origins of the Moroccan caftan date back to the 12th century during the Almohad dynasty, when the sultans sought a majestic garment befitting the status of the Moroccan sultan. This Moroccan attire was crafted by combining the traditional dress of Moroccan tribes with the woven textiles of Sfifa and Aakad produced in Fez. In the year 1203 CE (600 AH), Fez was considered the world’s leading industrial city, renowned for its numerous weaving factories where the Moroccan caftan was made. In his book “Description of Africa,” Leo Africanus mentions Fez, stating: “In Fez, there are five hundred and twenty weaving houses, which are numerous multi-story buildings with spacious halls like palaces, each hall containing a large number of linen weavers. There are also one hundred and fifty thread-spinning workshops, most of which are located near the river…”

Caftan as a dress worn by Moroccan women

During the Marinid era in Morocco, the Moroccan caftan became the distinguished attire of Moroccan sultans. By the 15th century, during the Wattasid period, the caftan evolved into a women’s garment in Fez. Leo Africanus describes it in his book, noting that “the women’s clothing is beautiful; in the heat, they wear only a shirt tied with a belt, and in winter, they wear wide-sleeved garments sewn in the front like men’s clothes.”

A part of our traditions

It was customary for the people of Fez to present Moroccan caftans as part of the bridal trousseau during the Wattasid period, a tradition that Moroccans continue to uphold. Historian Ibrahim Harakat explains: “The tradition dictates the presentation of three caftans, three dresses, several shirts, Moroccan slippers (Sharbil), decorative bed covers, cushions, eight mattresses, and four embroidered pillows placed alongside trunks, as well as a carpet, three bed covers, and other items. The bride’s trousseau often imposed heavy expenses on the groom’s family, which could lead to financial strain, while the bride’s father bore even greater expenses.” This illustrates the deep cultural connection between the Moroccan caftan and Moroccan traditions.

El Mansouriya

El Mansouriya
El Mansouriya

During the Saadian dynasty in Morocco, this garment was first known as “Mensouriya,” named after the Moroccan Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour, who had a specific piece made for him in Fez that bore his name. The Mensouriya consists of two parts: the lower piece, or “dafina,” is a thick Moroccan caftan, and the upper piece is a sheer Moroccan caftan. Historian Ahmad ibn Khalid al-Nasiri notes in his book “Al-Istiqsa li-Akhbar Duwal al-Maghrib al-Aqsa” that “the garment called Mensouriya, a garment made of Mlifa fabric, was not used before him; he was the first to invent it, and it was attributed to him, hence the name Mensouriya.” Historian Ibrahim Harakat also mentions the Sultan’s attire: “Al-Mansour adopted a special style that included the caftan and the Mensouriya named after him. He was the first to use the Mensouriya in his attire, and this style was later adopted by kings and scholars.”

During this period, the 16th century, the Moroccan women’s caftan was generally made of blue wool or silk fabric and adorned with golden threads. The caftan was sleeveless and fastened with golden buttons. The belt, or “Modamma,” was a silk sash rich with pearls, complemented by a long golden cover, tied at its inner parts like a tail, reaching down to the ground.

Types of Moroccan Caftan

Ntaa Caftan

Ntaa Caftan
Ntaa Caftan

Khrib Caftan

Khrib Caftan
Khrib Caftan

Old Rabat Caftan

Old Rabat Caftan
Old Rabat Caftan

Slawi Caftan

Slawi Caftan
Slawi Caftan

Khanjar North Caftan

Khanjar North Caftan
Khanjar North Caftan

Royal Mekhzani Caftan

Royal Mekhzani Caftan
Royal Mekhzani Caftan

Haj Omar Caftan

Haj Omar Caftan
Haj Omar Caftan

El Behja Caftan

El Behja Caftan
El Behja Caftan

Jawhara Caftan

Jawhara Caftan
Jawhara Caftan

Asemlal Amazigh Caftan

Asemlal Amazigh Caftan
Asemlal Amazigh Caftan

Tlija Takchita (Mensouria)

Caftan : Tlija Takchita (Mensouria)
Caftan : Tlija Takchita (Mensouria)

The Moroccan caftan is a testament to centuries of artistry, heritage, and cultural pride. Through its evolution from royal attire to a symbol of elegance for Moroccan women, the caftan has woven itself into the fabric of Morocco’s history. Each style, from the Ntaa to the Tlija Takchita, tells a story of tradition, craftsmanship, and the enduring legacy of Moroccan fashion.

As we conclude our exploration of the Moroccan caftan, we invite you to appreciate not only its beauty but also the rich history and intricate techniques that make it a cherished garment. Whether it’s a bride’s trousseau or a modern fashion statement, the Moroccan caftan continues to captivate and inspire, a timeless piece of Morocco’s cultural tapestry.

Thank you for joining us on this journey through the history and artistry of the Moroccan caftan. We hope it has enriched your understanding and appreciation of this exquisite garment. Stay tuned for more insights into the world of Moroccan culture.

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